Say "No" to Emulsifiers

You have heard this complaint over and over: “I use my moisturizer daily, but my skin still feels dry!” And you have probably had more than one client use up all of her moisturizer in half the time she should. These are indications of the damaging “washout effect” caused by products that contain emulsifiers. When emulsifiers are used to stabilize skin care products, TEWL and lipid dryness can be exacerbated.


Some estheticians are also unaware that emulsifiers do not lose their emulsifying properties in the skin. Actually, they have been proven to be an even higher irritant than fragrance or preservatives. Emulsifiers cause a modification of the stratum corneum, and consequently the skin barrier defenses.


Critical statements regarding the use of emulsifiers in skin care products steadily rise. Why? Because emulsifiers cause modifications in the stratum corneum in three main ways:

·       They manipulate the integrity of the barrier layers, which are part of the stratum corneum, and consist of very sensitive lipid bilayers.

·       Emulsifiers will not loose their emulsifying properties in the skin. There are exceptions: low doses of soaps which are transformed into acids like palmitic and stearic acids due to the acid milieu of the skin. These acids are also naturally present in the skin.

·       The lasting emulsifying capacity of the emulsifiers penetrated into the skin causes an increased transport of the skin’s own protective substances (lipids) out of the skin, especially when the skin comes in contact with water (in the shower). This is the “washout effect.”


The answer is derma membrane structure creams (DMS® creams) found in the dermaviduals® product line. These creams have formulations that do not contain conventional emulsifiers. Instead, they contain membrane components with physical structure comparable to the barrier layers of the skin—physiological lipids that mirror the lipid components of the skin such as ceramides, phospholipids, EFAs, and hydrated phosphatidylcholine.


With a big swell toward DMS® creams that have a physical structure similar to skin’s barrier defense layers, these creams are becoming popular as a vehicle or base for modern skin care dermatological preparations and topically applied medications. Dermaviduals® is way ahead of this surge as DMS® is in all of their creams.


Since all preventative treatment should aim to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier in its natural (best), intact condition, skin care providers who use dermaviduals® can help their clients achieve this optimal state of healing and prevention. This is an exciting time to be in the skin treatment industry. With the old formulations becoming a thing of the past, you can help your clients say “No” to emulsifiers and “Yes” to beautiful, healthy skin!  




Susan Schulz